Golden Chicken Soup with Schmaltz Matzo Balls
A proper South Florida deli-style chicken soup, built from a whole pasture-raised bird simmered low and slow into a deeply golden broth, with tender matzo balls made the old way using rendered schmaltz. This is the soup that Wolfie's regulars drove across town for, and the one grandmothers in Aventura made every Friday without a recipe card. It tastes like it took all day because, in the best way, it does.
The soup every South Florida deli table knew by heart, made with a bird worth knowing.
South Florida had a deli culture unlike anywhere else in the country. From the Wolfie Cohen empire in Miami Beach to the neighborhood counters along Hallandale and Hollywood, the chicken soup was not a side note. It was the reason people came in out of the heat, sat down in a vinyl booth, and stayed longer than they planned.
At Altamont, we raise chickens that are worth this kind of cooking. A pasture-raised bird simmered for two hours gives you a broth that grocery store birds simply cannot match: deeper gold, richer body, and enough fat to make proper schmaltz for your matzo balls. This is a tradition worth keeping. You can read how we raise them here.
Ingredients
Method
- 1
Put the chicken pieces, back, and neck in a large pot. Cover with 4 quarts of cold water and bring to a boil over medium-high heat. As foam rises to the surface in the first 10 minutes, skim it off and discard it. This step matters for a clear, clean broth.
- 2
Once the broth is mostly clear, add the carrots, celery, and half the dill. Lower the heat to a gentle simmer. Partially cover and cook for 2 hours, skimming fat as it collects on the surface. Reserve that skimmed fat in a small bowl: that is your schmaltz.
- 3
While the soup simmers, make the matzo ball mix. Whisk 2 eggs with 0.25 cup of schmaltz and 0.5 teaspoon of salt. Stir in the matzo meal until combined. Cover and refrigerate for at least 30 minutes. The mix needs to be cold and firm before shaping.
- 4
After 2 hours, lift the chicken pieces out of the broth. Pull the meat from the bones in large, tender shreds and set aside. Discard the bones, skin, and spent vegetables. Strain the broth through a fine-mesh sieve back into the pot. Taste and season with salt. Bring back to a gentle simmer.
- 5
Wet your hands and shape the chilled matzo ball mix into balls about the size of a golf ball, roughly 1.5 inches across. You should get 10 to 12. Drop them one at a time into the simmering broth. Cover the pot and cook without lifting the lid for 20 minutes. They will swell and become light and fluffy.
- 6
Return the shredded chicken to the pot along with the carrots if you want them. Ladle into deep bowls, two matzo balls per serving, and finish with a generous shower of fresh dill.
- 7
If you are serving the reserved hard-boiled eggs the old deli way, slice them and lay two or three slices into the bowl alongside the matzo balls before ladling in the hot broth.
Notes from our kitchen
- The cold start with the chicken is not optional: beginning in cold water pulls more flavor and collagen from the bones and gives you a richer, clearer broth than starting hot.
- Do not peek at the matzo balls while they cook. The steam inside the covered pot is what makes them puff up tender. Lifting the lid too early leads to dense, heavy balls, which the old-timers called sinkers.
- If you want to make this ahead, cook everything through straining the broth and shredding the chicken, then refrigerate overnight. The fat will solidify on top and lift right off, giving you a beautifully clear broth and ready schmaltz for the matzo balls.
Common questions
Can I use store-bought schmaltz if I don't skim enough fat from the broth?
Yes, and many deli cooks keep rendered schmaltz in the fridge as a staple. If you are short, a neutral oil like grapeseed will work in a pinch, but the flavor will be milder.
My matzo balls came out dense. What went wrong?
Most likely the mix was not cold enough before shaping, or the pot was opened during cooking. Make sure the batter has chilled a full 30 minutes, keep the simmer gentle rather than a rolling boil, and keep the lid on for the full 20 minutes.
Can I make the broth with just backs and necks instead of a whole bird?
You can, but the broth will be thinner and you won't have the shredded breast and thigh meat to return to the pot. The whole bird is what makes this a meal.
How do I store leftovers?
Store broth and matzo balls separately in the refrigerator for up to 4 days. Reheat the broth first, then warm the matzo balls in it gently. They get a little softer the next day, which many people prefer.
