Cast Iron Chicken and Swamp Cabbage with Stone-Ground Grits
Bone-in chicken thighs sear hard in a cast iron skillet, then braise low and slow with fresh swamp cabbage, bird peppers, and a splash of cane syrup until everything is falling-tender and smells like old Florida. Stone-ground grits cooked in chicken stock catch every drop of the pan drippings. This is the kind of supper that has been on Cracker tables in Hendry and Glades counties for generations.
Swamp cabbage soaks up the drippings while the grits hold everything together.
Alva sits right in the middle of old Cracker country, and the cooking out here has always been straightforward and honest: good protein, whatever was growing or could be found nearby, and a cast iron skillet that has been in the family longer than most people can remember. Swamp cabbage, the harvested heart of the sabal palm, was free for the taking across this part of Florida and it showed up on the table regularly, braised with pork or chicken in a shallow pool of drippings and stock.
This recipe is a version of that tradition with our pasture-raised thighs doing most of the work. The cane syrup is not there to make things sweet, just to round off the edges and give the braising liquid a little body. The bird peppers bring a clean, sharp heat that fades into the background but keeps things from going flat. It is the kind of supper that makes the house smell like something good has been happening in the kitchen all afternoon, even if you only spent an hour at the stove. You can read how we raise them here.
Ingredients
Method
- 1
Pat the chicken thighs completely dry with paper towels and season generously on both sides with salt and black pepper. Set a 12-inch cast iron skillet over medium-high heat and let it get good and hot, about 3 minutes. Lay the thighs skin-side down and do not move them. Sear until the skin is deep golden brown and releases cleanly from the pan, 8 to 10 minutes. Flip and sear the flesh side for 3 minutes more. Transfer the thighs to a plate.
- 2
Pour off all but about 2 tablespoons of fat from the skillet. Add the sliced onion and cook over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until soft and just starting to color at the edges, about 6 minutes. Add the bird peppers and cook one minute more.
- 3
Nestle the swamp cabbage rounds into the onion mixture. Pour in 1.5 cups of the chicken stock, then drizzle the cane syrup over everything. Stir gently to combine and bring to a low simmer.
- 4
Return the chicken thighs to the skillet skin-side up, settling them into the liquid without submerging the skin. Reduce heat to low, cover with a tight lid or foil, and braise for 35 minutes. Then uncover and cook another 10 minutes so the skin crisps back up and the braising liquid reduces slightly.
- 5
While the chicken finishes, bring the remaining 2.5 cups of chicken stock plus 1 cup of water to a boil in a heavy saucepan. Whisk in the grits in a slow, steady stream. Reduce heat to the lowest setting and cook, stirring every few minutes, until thick and creamy, about 25 to 30 minutes. Season with salt and a knob of butter if you have it on hand.
- 6
Spoon a generous mound of grits into each shallow bowl. Top with a chicken thigh or two, a pile of the braised swamp cabbage and onions, and a ladle of the pan juices. Pull out the bird peppers before serving or leave them in for guests who know what they are getting into.
- 7
Bring the skillet straight to the table if you want to do it right.
Notes from our kitchen
- Fresh swamp cabbage holds its shape and has a clean, slightly vegetal flavor that carries the braise. If you can only find jarred hearts of palm packed in water, drain them well and blot dry, but reduce the braising time by about 8 minutes so they do not go too soft.
- Low and slow is what makes this dish. If the liquid is boiling hard, your heat is too high. A bare simmer with just a few bubbles is exactly right for braising chicken thighs until they are tender all the way through.
- Stone-ground grits take patience. Start them before you braise the chicken and just let them sit on the lowest burner setting, stirring when you walk by. They will reward you.
Common questions
Can I use chicken drumsticks instead of thighs?
Yes, drumsticks work fine here. They may need an extra 5 to 10 minutes of braising time since the meat around the bone is a bit thicker at the shank end. Check that the juices run clear before serving.
What does swamp cabbage taste like?
It is the heart of the sabal palm, Florida's state tree, and it tastes something like a mild artichoke crossed with white asparagus. It soaks up braising liquid beautifully and has a satisfying bite without being tough. LaBelle holds a whole festival around it every year.
Can I substitute something for cane syrup?
Sorghum syrup is the closest swap and keeps you squarely inside the Old Florida pantry. Molasses works too but is stronger, so use just half a tablespoon. Skip maple syrup entirely since the flavor profile goes somewhere different.
